501441937_2d1883485b_b_d.jpgFun piece (by Friend of Crabwalk Reese) on dueling versions of the history of Tabasco. There’s an official book produced by the McIllhennys themselves (by Shane K. Bernard) and an independent one (by journalist Jeffrey Rothfeder). Proponents of the latter say Bernard is just a shill for the company, which has some fairly, er, interesting moments in its past; proponents of the former say Rothfeder is just out to slander a family-owned Louisiana institution.

I take no stance on the controversy, except to make three points:

(a) my natural instinct is always to go with the journalist (you know, being one and all);

(b) but I’ve read Bernard’s two previous non-Tabasco books and they both struck me as honest and quality (particularly his excellent The Cajuns);

(c) whenever I take out-of-town visitors to visit Tabasco HQ on Avery Island, they’re invariably creeped out by the weird antebellum plantation aura of the place — particularly the strange racial politics of the short film they show on the company tour. It feels a little like I’d imagine a United Fruit town in ’20s Costa Rica did.

21 November 2007



Comments

22 November | 8:11  |  Jeffrey Rothfeder

I'm the writer of McIlhenny's Gold and just want to point out that my book is not in any fashion uncomplimentary to the McIlhenny's. I think they have a wonderful family business that has survived when most others from that period are long gone; they are brand and marketing genuises; they have an instinctual feel for creating and acting on an excellent business model; and they are a family of fascinating characters. Like any other family, they have black marks, skeletons in the closet, dubious personality traits and I wrote about them honestly....but not in a style that in any way demeaned what the family has accomplished. Bernard and I have similar feelings about the family -- we are both extremely impressed. His book, self-published as it is, simply cannot be as unbiased as mine is. Otherwise, any disagreement is overplayed. To demonstrate my conclusions about the McIlhennys, here is the third to last paragraph in my book: Whatever the outcome, it's been a magnificent journey for the McIlhennys, distinguished by extraordinary business acumen and a family's ingenuity spooling seamlessly through epochs of slavery, war, invention, genius, myth, racial uneases, half-truths and untruths.



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Joshua Benton is the director of the Nieman Journalism Lab at Harvard University, among other things. Before that, he was a staff writer and columnist for The Dallas Morning News. (More.)

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